Jan 20

Bugging Out vs. Hunkering Down

  This article has been contributed by M.D. Creekmore of The Survivalist Blog.


The very idea of leaving the security of your home to “bug out” to thebugging out woods has never sat well with me – In nearly every instance it’s better to hunker down or “bug in” than to bug out. I mean, why leave the safety and familiar surroundings of your home, for the open and unforgiving wilderness.

For many people this is their first line of preparation against disaster, unfortunately, most will end up joining the multitude of other refugees freezing in a cave and eventually end up dead or wards of whatever government is still functioning.

I live in a fairly safe area and have prepared to survive at home and can conceive of only a few scenarios that would force me to leave. Even then, I would go to an out-of-state relatives house with whom, I have a pre-arranged agreement, where if need be he can come to my place or I to his after a disaster.

I know what you’re thinking “what about an end of the world as we know it” type event, well if such an event were to take place, there would be no 100% safe place for most of us, and really do you think you would be better of making a go of it in the open wilderness as opposed to hunkering down at home.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying we should never bug out to the wilderness; we should indeed keep all our options open, what I am saying is that there are better ways to survive most disasters than heading into the bush.

You need to weigh the risks of bugging out vs. hunkering down and make your final decision based on logic and type of threat. That’s the way decisions should be made, unfortunately many people when making plans for survival side with emotion (that emotion being to run and hide) instead of the more tried and true form of decision-making known as logic.

Relying on emotion instead of logic can make for some interesting adventures; however without sound planning beforehand those adventures are likely to be sort lived. For example, I recently asked a fellow in his late 30’s what he would do if disaster struck his area.

He thought for a moment and said he would gather his family and all the food, guns and ammunition he could find and head for the mountains that lay some seventy-five miles to the north of his home.

Depending on the type of disaster, his “plan” might work short term for a lone survivor or a small group of individuals in good physical condition with proper gear and mind-set. But he is a new father and his wife is one of those that think missing an appointment at the nail-salon is the end of the world as she knows it.

Making matters worse he has no outdoor survival training or skills other than watching reruns of Less Stroud’s “Survivorman” and camping at a national park campground with all the utilities and hookups. Why he thinks he can survive off the wilderness while dragging his family along, I don’t know. He isn’t thinking logically.

His decision was based on emotion and as a result if he ever has to put his plan to the test in the real world his family will likely suffer or die because of his decision and “Red Dawn” thinking. Unfortunately, this batman in the boondocks mentality is and will continue to be the chosen survival plan for many who haven’t thought it through.

When making survival plans for your family you have to honestly weigh the risks of your decision based on logic. In almost every disaster scenario, it is better to stay put (bugging in) or head to a pre-arranged safe place at an out-of-town relatives or friends house than it is to head to the woods to eat twigs and pine bark.

For most people an evacuation bag is a better choice than a bug out bag. An evacuation bag should contain the gear necessary to get you from point A to point B, whereas a bug out bag (in most cases) is geared more toward wilderness survival. I have both, but admittedly my bug out bag is an option of last resort.

Knowing when to go is much more important than the contents of your survival pack or even where you will go. You don’t want to jump and run before you need too, but you don’t want to wait too long or you may never reach your destination.

If you wait for the authorities to give the order to evacuate it may already be too late. The roads leading to safety could be blocked and impassable by motor vehicle and walking to your destination may be impossible or too dangerous to attempt.

On the other hand if you jump and run in response to every potential disaster you’ll soon deplete your resources and the patience of your family, school and employers.For example, say you live in an area prone to tornadoes like Texas and you evacuate to Arkansas every time the clouds turn dark or the wind shakes the leaves. You would literally stay on the road. But waiting until the twister is at your door will put you at an unnecessary risk.

There are no easy answers; all you can do is weigh the dangers of bugginginbugging out vs. hunkering down depending on the situation and logic. You have to consider the nature of the threat and ask yourself which gives the best chance of survival with regards to the type of disaster you are facing.

Then, there are times when evacuation is a no brainer, say you live on the Florida coast and a category 5 hurricane has been predicted to hit that coast within twenty-four hours, in that case you would be stupid not to go now, even if you have no prearranged bug out location…

On the other hand let’s say there is snow storm heading your way and you have food, water, heat and a way to cook even if the power goes out for an extended amount of time then you are probably better off to hunker down where you are.

In my opinion the bugging out vs. hunkering down debate is moot because it all comes down to the type of threat, your personal situation and preparedness level – in the end you’ll have to make that decision based on that knowledge and common sense.


Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/bugging-out-vs-hunkering-down/

Jan 20

Flour Facts You Need to Know

 By Jalapeno Gal77

Reprinted from the American Prepper Website


When it comes to preparing for economic collapse, job loss & natural disasters, we are taught to store food those hard times. 

Let’s face it, with all the information out there on how to store your food, it can get mighty confusing.  Flour seems to be controversial as to how long it is *safe* to store.  After much research, I put together a list of facts I have found on many different types of flours.  Remember to do a basic test of any staples before using them.  Observe and smell.  If either test fails, then be safe and toss it out.

all_purpose_flourAll Purpose Flour is a blend of hard and soft wheat.  As one of the most commonly used flours in America, it can be bleached or unbleached.  Chemically treated flour is labeled bleached and flour that is allowed to age naturally is considered unbleached.

Shelf life:  If properly sealed or wrapped, all-purpose flour should last safely on your shelf for 10-15 months.  If refrigerated, then up to 24 months.  I found reports of people who have used it well beyond this (but not too many) and that is up to you.  Heat and moisture accelerate staleness, so store in a cool, dry place.  When weather is hot and humid outside, store it in your freezer.


better for bread


Bread Flour is made from hard, high protein wheat.  It is unbleached and conditioned with ascorbic acid.  This creates better texture and increases volume.  Bread flour is used primarily with yeast products.

Shelf Life: If properly sealed or wrapped in an air tight container bread flour can last 6 months on the shelf or up to a year in the freezer.


self rising flour


Self-Rising Flour does not need salt or leavening agents added because they are already added by the manufacturer.  It is sometimes referred to as phosphate flour and is primarily used for biscuits, quick breads and fried chicken.

Shelf life:  If properly sealed or wrapped the all-purpose flour should last safely on your shelf for 10-15 months.  If refrigerated, then up to 24 months.  You can make your own self-rising flour by adding 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda and a half teaspoon of salt to one cup of All Purpose Flour.


instant flour

Instant Flour is wheat flour in which barley flour has been added.  Its purpose is to dissolve quickly and is primarily used in sauces and gravies.  It can also be used for making pie crusts and recipes calling for cake flour.  However, it is not the same as all-purpose flour.  It is lower in protein.  If you have a recipe that calls for instant flour and you cannot find it, many cooks will substitute with cake or pastry flour.

Shelf life:  Properly sealed instant flour has a shelf like of 6-8 months on the shelf and a year or so in a freezer.

cake flour

Cake Flour is white flour that is fine textured and should always be sifted before measure as it has a tendency to clump after being on the shelf too long.  It is 5-7% protein being the lowest protein flour on the market.  When using a cake/pastry, muffin, quick bread or cookie recipe that has more sugar than flour, this is a good flour to use because it is less likely to collapse.   If you cannot find this flour in your area then you can substitute all-purpose flour by removing 2-3 tablespoons of flour per cup used in the recipe.

Shelf life: see notes below.

ww pastry flour

Pastry Flour is not intended to make bread with, but is used to make a flaky biscuit, pastry, cookies, pie crust and quick breads.  It has between 7% and 9% protein.  This flour is hard to find in super markets but can be found online and in bakery shops.   I have heard it is possible to make it yourself using a 2:1 ratio of all-purpose flour (2) to cake flour (1), but I have not tried this.

Shelf Life: see notes below.


brown rice flour

Rice Flour  is flour made from finely milled white or brown rice.

Shelf life: White rice (Known as white flour) shelf life, if stored properly can be stored indefinitely.  Brown rice flour on the other, has a shelf life in the refrigerator of about 5-6 months and in the freezer it can last up to a year.  Brown rice has a higher oil level in it because of the bran and germ in it which causes it to go rancid if not stored properly.





Whole Wheat Flour is made from the whole kernel of wheat.  The shelf life is considerably shorter than that of white flour due to the presence of wheat germ, resulting in an unsaturated oil.  This causes a higher potential for rancidity if not stored correctly.  Wheat flour should be stored in a tight container in the refrigerator or freezer.

Shelf Life:  If stored on the shelf, 3 months.  If stored in the freezer, 6 months.


gluten free flour



Gluten Flour is milled from spring wheat and is primarily used for diabetic recipes.  These flours are also for people who can’t eat wheat flours or anything made with wheat.  These flours can affect a recipe’s cooking time, flavor, and texture.

Shelf Life:  In the freezer up to one year.  On the shelf, about 6 months and check for rancidity.



Buckwheat Flour is a gluten-free flour as well.  It has a great nutty flavor and is easy to work with.  It is used for anyone who has gluten sensitivities or celiac disease.

Shelf Life:  3-6 months on the shelf and up to one year in the freezer.






Spelt Flour is a wheat based flour that is very popular and widely used among people who have wheat allergies but are okay to use gluten.  Spelt has a nutty/sweet flavor that is among favorites for many who bake bread.

Shelf Life:  3-6 months in the pantry if properly sealed. 6-12 months if stored in your freezer.





white flour

White Flour also known as white rice flour is the flour that can be stored for 10 years or longer and what most preppers store in their long-term storage.  White flour is made by stripping wheat of everything useful and then using chemicals to bleach the color out of the flour.  Important medical facts you need to know about white flour.

Shelf life: Indefinitely if stored properly in air tight container.


Flour must be kept in a cool, dry place.  All flours have a limited shelf life.  The main changes that occur is the oxidation of the oils in the flour which can cause the flour to become stale or rancid.  If your flour is stored in a cool, dry place it prevents the flour from absorbing moisture.  To kill any bugs/eggs, place your flour in the freezer for 48 hours.  If possible, to extend the shelf life, keep the flour in the freezer when you’re not using it.

Store your flour in an air tight container.  This can mean Tupperware, or a plastic freezer bag.  Anything to lessen its exposure to air.  If you’re storing your flour in a canister or container on the shelf place a bay leaf in with the flour.  This will protect against bug infestation. Bay leafs are a natural insect repellent.

Throw away any flour that has a strong odor, smells stale or rancid.

I know there are many more flour choices out there on the market to learn about.  I have focused this article on the most popular types used today to help you better understand what each kind is used for and what you might think about adding to your food storage.  


Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/flour-facts-you-need-to-know/

Jan 20

Gun Control and the 2nd Amendment

As ratified by the States and authenticated by Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State:

“A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.”
The Second Amendment is the only amendment to the Constitution with a stated purpose.
  • enabling the people to organize a militia system.
  • participating in law enforcement;
  • deterring tyrannical government;
  • repelling invasion;
  • suppressing insurrection, allegedly including slave revolts;
  • facilitating a natural right of self-defense;


It is important for me to start with the sentences above to express the importance of the true meaning of the words.  If you read the text, you will note that none of it has to do with hunting or sport shooting.  When the Bill of Rights were adopted on Dec 15th, 1791 our founding fathers saw it fit to protect the citizenry and re-establish the “right to bear arms” that was taken away by the King of England. 

It was acknowledged that the right to hunt and fend for your family was a natural right and it was not the argument then, nor is it the argument today.

The battles we endure today are about power.  The government in essence wants to disarm the people thus establishing a false sense of security and full power over the populous.  The talk today is about:

Backround Checks

Waiting periods

Number of rounds in magazine

What makes a gun an “assault rifle

Backround checks and waiting periods or “cool off time” has been on the books and have been working fine but with the recent school shootings and theatre assaults and other instances, our power hungry politicians see another avenue to total gun confiscation.  I watched with amusement that Gov. Cuomo and the President each said identical sentences 1 day apart. “We don’t want to take your guns”.  Yes they do.Obama and the Consitution

Now they have morphed the conversation to how many rounds should be allowed in a magazine and what makes a gun an assault rifle.  Note the progression in the words and how quick they were to “legislate” new laws (within days) of the Newtown massacre.  There are many existing laws on the books that cover all of the recent shootings in place but really were never enforced properly.  Why is that?

Could it be by design?  Every time there is a shooting by some wacko, the government “machine” has an opportunity to enact new stringent laws that chip away at our 2nd amendment rights. 

Ok, try this one on…….don’t you think the government knows that the economy cannot continue the way its going?  Don’t you think that one day the fiscal house of cards will come tumbling down?  And when that happens, there will be chaos and civil unrest when the money stops.  All the folks depending on a government check will hit the streets in protest and an insurrection will ensue.  The government will react with Marshall Law then violence, real violence will occur.   As it is now, the citizens still have a fighting chance to protect themselves, even though it may seem futile against the might and firepower of the strongest most modern military on the planet.  But remember it is not that different than in 1775 when the thirteen colonies went up against the King and the most modern military in the world.  Farmers, businessmen and patriots in rags and unorganized secured a future for this great Nation from tyranny.

“The right to bear arms shall not be infringed”  …….. Do you think that having a bolt action rifle, one bullet at a time, will give you any chance at all against a modern tyranny bolstered with Drones, Jets, Blackhawks and smart bombs?  Or at least have a fighting chance with a 30 round magazine in an AR15.  It is proportional to 1775, is it not?ar15

This government will stop at nothing short of a total gun ban, which is only the beginning to shredding our Great Constitution…what’s next?  1st Amendment?   Wake up folks, be vigilant, ask the hard questions…… remember that the Government works for us.  We don’t work for it.

Joe Cherry


Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/gun-control-and-the-2nd-amendment/

Jan 13

Emergency Sanitation

 By Joe Cherry

When the electric shuts down, so do all the pumps that move water and when the water stops moving, things can get pretty nasty real quick when it comes to sanitation.  Being prepared for any emergency will require a sound sanitation procedure plan.  When camping or out in the field for extended periods, personal hygiene is number one on the list to staying alive.  When the toilets stop flushing at home, the health risk runs high and failure to dispose of human waste can lead to disease.

Some things you can do to prevent dysentery and/or disease:

1.  Use a 5 gal. bucket lined with a plastic bag as a temporary toilet.    You will find plastic seats that will fit common plastic buckets on line or at camping supply stores.  You should have a couple.  One for urine and the other for solid waste.  The waste should be treated with lime or Bio-Clean before disposal. The urine is easier to dispose of, so I recommend digging a hole at least 2 feet deep and disposing the waste there.

2.  You can use your toilet if there is no water in it, simply line it with a plastic bag.

3.  Digging a hole and squatting is an option, but if your built anything like me, it would be kind of precarious. 

The following list and information is from author Peggy Layton.  She is an expert in food handling and a contributor to the APN.  


  • 2 (5-gallon buckets with lids) one for urine and one for solid human waste.
  • 2 plastic portable toilet seats.
  • Several rolls of toilet paper.
  • Paper towels, wash clothes and hand towels.
  • 2-litre bottle of water for washing hands.
  • Hand or baby wipes large size (2 packages).
  • Sanitary napkins and personal hygiene items.
  • Biodegradable (if possible) heavy-duty (13-gallon) trash bag liners to line the 5-gallon buckets.
  • Heavy-duty twist ties to seal the liners shut when not in use.
  • Large garbage bags for trash.
  • Disposable gloves.
  • Home Dusk masks.
  • Small collapsible shovel.
  • Plastic quart jar of laundry detergent, borax, lime, or a jar of


  • Hand sanitizer.
  • Small bottle of bleach with a tight fitting lid.
  • Spray bottle to mix 1/8 cup bleach to 1 quart of water (label it) and use it to disinfect with.
  • Spray bottle to clean the body.
  • Soap, hand-held mirror, toothbrush, and personal hygiene items.
  • Diapers if you have a baby.

You will be setting up a makeshift bathroom somewhere secluded outside. If your house is still intact but the sewer system is backed up you can keep the buckets in the house. Sprinkle the human waste with 2 tablespoons of lime, borax, laundry detergent or Bio-Clean after you are finished using the toilet. This controls the smell and bacteria. It is best to use one bucket for urine and the other for waste. Disposable wipes or toilet paper can be put in with the waste. The bucket with urine can be dumped more often and the one with waste in it can be sealed with the heavy-duty twist ties and once per day disposed of by burying it.

To avoid the spread of disease, bury all human waste by digging a hole at least 2 feet deep. Bury the entire bag of human waste in the hole and cover it up with the dirt from digging the hole. The biodegradable liners are the best for the environment.

If you live in an apartment and have no land to bury the bags, double bag them and then seal them the best you can with the twist ties. Place them in a large garbage can until the city can collect the trash and dispose of it.


Bio-Clean is a blend of bacteria and enzymes. The bacteria are all natural, not genetically engineered. The enzyme concentration is the most powerful on the market. Bio-Clean is non-poisonous. It creates no heat or fumes and there is no boiling involved. It does not attack live tissue or inorganic materials, only organic wastes like human excrement, grease, hair, food particles, paper and cotton. This makes Bio-Clean safe for people, plumbing and the environment.


Bio-Clean changes the waste particles into water, carbon dioxide and mineral ash, which become harmless in the outhouse, cesspool, pit, or waste system. These elements are then available to use as compost in the garden. I found out about Bio-Clean from my husband who is a plumbing contractor. He sells Bio-Clean to customers for use in septic tanks to keep them from backing up.

Use A Spray Bottle To Clean The Body

Keeping the body clean in an emergency is very important.  Us a spray bottle with a small amount of antibacterial soap in it. Use paper towels or hand towels to wash up. Water needs to be boiled in emergency situations. Set up a way to boil the water. Let it cool down before putting it in a spray bottle. Be sure to put a washcloth to wash up with and a hand towel to dry off with in the sanitation kit.

Avoid Intestinal Ailments

  • Store drinking water, 1-gallon minimum, per person, per day. Store it now so you will have it ready in case of an emergency.
  • Know how to turn off the water service valve to your home so no contaminated water can come into your home. Have a backup plan for emergency drinking, cooking and washing water if your municipal supply is cut off.
  • In emergencies, boil contaminated water for five minutes. Keep hands clean and all food that has been exposed must be washed with clean water. Keep paper plates, cups, and utensils in your grab and go kit so it minimizes the need to wash dishes.
  • Avoid using foods or liquids that might be contaminated. When in doubt, throw it out.

I use a product called ION Stabilized Oxygen in all liquid to kill bacteria. It will keep the water safe for up to 5 years. It has been found to be very effective in water treatment. Many studies have been done on this product and it is concluded that ION will kill giardia, cholera and dysentery within a few minutes. It doesn’t have any of the harmful side effects that are associated with chlorine or Iodine. ION is a high concentration of oxygen.

One 2-ounce bottle will treat 110 gallons of water.


ION can be used medicinally to fight bacteria in the body. It can be used on cuts and wounds. ION will not harm the normal flora in our bodies. ION can be taken every day (five drops per 8-ounce glass of water). This will help boost the immune system by introducing stabilized oxygen into the bloodstream. It can also help you if you suffer from a bacterial or viral infection. During times of sickness caused by a bacterial or viral infection, take 50 drops every three hours diluted in a glass of water. The ION goes into the stomach and fights the bacteria or virus.

Water Tanks For Emergency Water Storage

Water is king. It is actually more important than food. Without good, clean, potable water, you won’t be able to eat the dehydrated food you are storing stay hydrated, wash dishes or clean yourself up.

I keep water in several locations. I have a 185-gallon water storage tank that sits in the corner of my camping-equipment room. It needs to be located in an area that won’t freeze or overheat. The ideal temperature to store water in is room temperature or below (65-45 degrees Fahrenheit). This water tank can be purchased on my website    www.peggylayton.com.

I also keep smaller 5-gallon containers filled with water and ready to grab if needed. Any food-grade plastic container can be used to store water in. The bottles that apple, cranberry or grape juices come in are ideal for water storage. Never use milk jug type containers because they are made to break down after about six months, and they will start to collapse and leak.

Below is an article from   Phlush.org  This is another way of sanitary disposal.

How to Make and Use the Christchurch Twin No-Mix Emergency Toilet

What do you need?

  • 2 to 4 plastic buckets (5 or 6 gal. size)
  • Lids for buckets
  • A toilet seat
  • Carbon material: 1 or 2 gal. plastic bags of sawdust, shredded paper, pulverized dry leaves or peatmoss.

Supermarkets and bakeries often will give you used buckets for free though they may lack lids.  Lids and buckets are sold at hardware stories and online. At least one lid should have a good seal. Buckets are useful for storing other emergency supplies.   Toilet seats that fit buckets are available at camping stores or on line. You can also adapt smaller ordinary seats to fit buckets.  Your emergency supplies should also include hygiene items: toilet paper, hand sanitizer, soap, sanitary napkins, plastic collection bags of various sizes and this instruction sheet.


How do you use the toilet?

  1. Mark the twin buckets “pee” and “poo” (or #1 and #2 or urine and feces, or yellow and brown, etc).
  2. Set them up in a private space. The seat can be moved from one to the other.
  3. Scratch your head and decide if you need to use the pee bucket or the poo bucket.
  4. Try not to pee in the poo bucket. This is really important but it is understandable that this isnʼt always possible. The pee is the component that produces the bad smell in toilets that mix.
  5. After using the pee bucket remove the seat and cover with a lid that closes well.
  6. After using the poo bucket, sprinkle about a half cup of the carbon material so that it completely covers the surface of the poo. This will eliminate odors and ensure flies don’t make themselves at home.
  7. Toilet paper is just fine for the poo bucket but not for the pee bucket.
  8. Put the toilet seat back down ensuring it’s not airtight. Give your poo some air and it will dry out and reduce in volume.

Remember that in an emergency people are vulnerable and scared.  If your flush toilet doesn’t work and the sewers are down, folks in your household will appreciate the comfort, hygiene and safety that come with this simple twin toilet.

What do you do when buckets fill up?


The really great feature of the Christchurch Twin is that it is No-Mix. It separates pee and poo, makes each of them easier to handle and almost completely eliminates odor.

A day’s worth of pee has almost 10 times the volume of poo. So the pee bucket will fill up a lot faster.  The volume of pee is why  a single bucket camp toilet fills up quickly and the mix is a mess to deal with.  The great thing about pee is that it’s clean (unless someone is sick) and getting rid of it is not difficult.  If you have extra buckets and lids, you can store it until it can be put in the soil (6 to 8 inches below the surface) or added to a compost pile.  In a real emergency you can dump urine in a street drain or the river, although a wooded area is preferable. What’s special about the Twin, it that it works even for high-rise apartment dwellers.

It’s the poo bucket that contains most of the pathogens. But the great thing about poo is that it doesn’t take up much space.   Left to dry in a bucket with some carbon material, poo simply decomposes into compost.  In a small household it will take a couple of weeks for the poo bucket to fill so just leave it be and give it some air. Poo is manageable, although there will still be pathogens.

Note: Compost that is safe to reuse on gardens requires extra work.  At www.composttoilets.co.nz the New Zealand team explains how to safely use urine and composted poo as fertilizers for crops.  On this site see sections on Emergency and Ecological Sanitation.

Related articles   Humanure Composting,  Composting Human Waste

Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/emergency-sanitation/

Jan 13

Humanure Composting

We recently got a book from the library called “The Humanure imagesCAIDBC0DHandbook, by J.C. Jenkins and found it one of the most informative, comprehensive books on the topic of composting human “manure”. We had never considered such an option and were totally ignorant of the subject even though it has been a common practice in other countries, such as China for centuries.
We had been using an outhouse because we don’t want a septic system, which is required to hook up to permanent electricity. (We have a temporary service pole and are eventually planning to add some solar power) It sounded so reasonable,  simple and cheap that we decided to give it a try. We recycle everything else, we figured, so why not our humanure.
Mr. Jenkins, in a very humorous way, tells you exactly how to do it, and believe it or not, it is very simple, easy to do, and it doesn’t smell in the bathroom or in the compost pile. He calls it “thermophilic” composting, where all the pathogens are killed. In one year of sitting in the compost pile, the finished product is perfectly safe and ready to use in the garden.

The book is a very scientific presentation, complete with cartoons and information galore. In our particular lifestyle, we think it makes perfect sense to do this and it is very earth friendly, humble and self-reliant. We love it! We’ll never have to deal with expensive septic systems and stopped up toilets and plumbing problems again, we’ll have some compost as a bonus, and we aren’t flushing a toilet and wasting water, “defecating into clean drinking water”, as Mr. Jenkins says.
Here’s how to do it:
You set up a homemade toilet bench with a toilet seat (like an outhouse), but you place a 5-gallon poly bucket beneath it. (or you could just purchase porta-potty from a camping store…one with a removable bucket.) Just so the seat part is removable for emptying purposes.

You start with about 1/2 gallon of rotted sawdust (or peat moss) in the bottom of the bucket. Everything goes in the bucket…feces, urine, toilet paper, even the cardboard tubes. Every time someone uses it, they sprinkle a generous scoop of sawdust or peat moss over it all. You can  use it until it is full and it doesn’t smell, we promise.      

You then empty the bucket onto a compost pile, where you cover it with any kind of carbonaceous material, such as weeds, leaves, etc. This keeps the flies away and the smell down. If you do notice a smell, you just put on more cover material. You also add kitchen scraps and other composting materials available.

This pile will heat up because it has everything it needs to “cook”. The combination of the poop, the urine (nitrogen), the sawdust (or peat) and the carbonaceous material all work together. You let this pile sit for one year, in addition to the year it took to build it. Then you start a second pile. So, initially, it takes two years to get to use the first pile. Thereafter, you have safe, finished compost once a year.
For those who think this might be a workable option to a septic system, I would suggest getting the book and reading it for yourselves. It’s a great book. Chelsea Green publishing sells it and I’ve seen it listed in Mother Earth News and similar “green” magazines, and of course you can get it from the library.

Related articles:  Emergency Sanitation,  Composting Human Waste

If you have any questions, e-mail us and we will be happy to answer them if we can.
Note:  The entire Humanure Handbook, by Joseph Jenkins is now online  at        http://www.weblife.org/humanure         Donna

also:      excellent plans for compost bins made with free pallets are to be found at http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/Pallet/Pallet1.htm

Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/humanure-composting/

Jan 13

Composting Human Waste

 How to Convert Human Waste into a Safe Garden Compost FertilizerimagesCAJL1AU9

An Updated Modern Scientifically Safe Procedure that Replaces the Ancient Oriental Unsafe “Night Soil” Method of Recycling Human Waste.
(A historical overview on this topic can be read at: Wikepdia: Night Soil.) (A brief discussion on this topic can be read in the 1973 article: Mother Earth News: Feedback on Night Soil.) (A more detailed discussion on this topic can be found in the 1995 online book: The Humanure Handbook.) (Over 75% of the following information is not discussed anywhere in any of the above three references.)
Copyright © December 31, 2008 by Robert Wayne Atkins, P.E. All rights reserved and all rights protected under international copyright law. (For Fair Use and Educational Purposes Only.)

Click Here for a Microsoft WORD printer friendly copy of this article.

If any of the following events should occur:

  1. a peak oil crisis or a World War that results in a significant reduction in the transportation of food, or
  2. commercial fertilizer becomes scarce or extremely expensive, or
  3. unemployment increases significantly and many families are forced to grow their own vegetables, or
  4. there is a local, national, or worldwide famine,

then the following information would be extremely valuable to everyone who has a vegetable garden.  The following information would allow a family to safely and economically enrich their garden soil every year in order to provide a continuous harvest of fresh vegetables.

“Night Soil” is untreated human waste mixed with garden soil. Do not use untreated human waste in a garden area.  Human waste contains harmful microorganisms that are fatal to humans.

All human waste originally came from the earth.  And all human waste will eventually be converted back into the earth.  If this process is properly controlled then the harmful microorganisms inside human waste will be destroyed and the resulting compost can be safely used to replenish the nutrients in garden soil.  Compost is one of nature’s best mulches and soil enhancements. It may also be successfully used instead of fertilizer.  Compost helps to aerate and loosen clays soils. It also helps sandy soils retain their moisture.

The Indoor Toilet Bucket (originally called a “Chamber Pot”)
Toilet Bucket Any 5-gallon or 6-gallon bucket with a tight fitting lid may be used as an indoor toilet bucket.  An ordinary toilet stool seat can be attached to the top of this bucket to make it easier to use.  These bucket toilet seats are currently available for sale on ebay.
After a person has deposited human waste (poop and urine and toilet paper) into the toilet bucket, sprinkle a little sawdust, or crumbled dry leaves, or dried grass clippings, or chopped brown pine needles, or shredded paper on top of the waste to help control the odor.  Then replace the bucket lid to keep the smell inside the bucket.

The Compost Pile
Periodically transfer the contents of the toilet bucket to an outdoor compost pile that is a reasonable distance from your home but close to your garden area.  Immediately cover the human waste on the compost pile with a layer of dried leaves, or shredded brown pine straw, or dried grass clippings, or shredded paper.  You should use approximately the same amount of covering material as human waste.  This will keep the odor under control and it will help keep the heat trapped inside the compost pile.  Rinse or clean the toilet bucket and then return the empty toilet bucket to its normal location inside your home.  Then immediately wash your hands.compost pile

Other Compost Pile Materials
Other desirable items that could be added to the compost pile include crushed egg shells, fruit and vegetable peels, used coffee grounds and filters (2% nitrogen), used tea bags, kitchen scraps, apple cores, fireplace ashes, shredded junk mail, shredded cardboard, garden weeds, and the shredded vines and shredded stalks from garden plants after harvesting the vegetables (such as corn stalks, bean vines, and tomato vines).  Always chop or shred any large items into smaller pieces.  Farm animal manure from grass eaters is also good if it is at least one-week old.
Do not add lime, bones, meat, dairy products, cooking grease, cat or dog droppings, disposable diapers, clothes dryer lint (synthetic fibers), paper with color pictures (potential heavy metals), walnut leaves, diseased plants, or poisonous plants (poison ivy) to your compost pile.  (Note: Lime may be added to your garden soil but not to your compost pile.)
Alternate your compost covering materials and use a variety of different items.  In other words, alternate the use of dried leaves, dried grass clippings, brown pine straw, and shredded paper.  Spread each material into a relatively even layer across the top of your pile using a garden rake or hoe that is only used for this one purpose.  Try to have approximately the same amount of brown materials (low nitrogen) as green materials (high nitrogen) inside your compost pile.  Green refers to new or fresh items (freshly cut grass clippings, green pine needles, green leaves, fresh kitchen waste, and all types of fresh manure). Brown refers to old or dried items (month old dried out grass clippings, brown pine needles, dry leaves).

Compost Pile Size and Shape
A good size for a single compost pile is 3 feet in diameter and 3 feet deep.  Once the pile gets to this size you should start another compost pile nearby.

Carbon/Nitrogen Mixture Ratios
The microorganisms that decompose materials into compost require carbon, nitrogen, water, heat, and oxygen. Carbon is used to provide energy.  Nitrogen is used to form cell structures.  As the tiny microorganisms consume these nutrients they produce heat inside the compost pile. The tiny microorganisms need approximately 30 times more carbon than nitrogen (or 30:1).  Successful decomposition will take place if the carbon/nitrogen ratio is anywhere in the range between 20 to 40 (or 20:1 to 40:1).  Whenever you add a material that has a low ratio, you should also add a material that has a high ratio at the same time.  Paper, sawdust, and wood ashes should be used in moderation because they have extremely high ratios. Pine straw needles should be chopped or shredded.  Tree leaves are one of the best materials you can use to cover human waste because they are widely available and they are easily collected with a ordinary garden rake.  However, variety is the key to success because each material brings its own unique blend of other nutrients to the compost pile.  For example, grass clippings contain approximately 3.5% Nitrogen, 0.75% Phosphorus, and 2.5% Potassium, and they can be easily collected during the warm months when dried leaves may not be readily available.

Approximate Carbon/Nitrogen Ratios for Different Compost Materials

Ratio Compost Material     Ratio Compost Material
15:1 Kitchen Food Scraps     35:1 Fruit Waste
16:1 Human Waste     60:1 Leaves
17:1 Grass Clippings     60:1 Corn Stalks
20:1 Cow Manure     80:1 Straw
25:1 Horse Manure     85:1 Pine Needles
25:1 Vegetable Waste     170:1 Paper
26:1 Oak Leaves     400:1 Sawdust

Water Requirements (and the Top of the Compost Pile)
Do not let the compost pile get too dry or too wet.  Either extreme is not good for the normal composting process.  The moisture level inside the pile should be about the same as a wrung-out sponge.  If you wear a rubber glove and you withdraw a handful of compost from inside the pile, and you squeeze it tightly then you should be able to extract one or two drops of water.
If you live in a wet climate with good rainfall then your compost pile should have a round domed shaped top to help shed rainwater.  However, if you live in a dry climate with minimum rainfall then your compost pile should have a concave bowl shaped top to capture and diffuse rainwater into the compost pile.

Temperature Requirements
During the summer months periodically check the temperature inside the compost pile.
The easiest way to determine the temperature inside your compost pile is to use a special compost thermometer with a 20-inch stem. (Note: These thermometers are available on ebay and at amazon.com.) Or you could use any thermometer with a stem, such as an instant-read meat thermometer, but you must reserve that thermometer for this one specific application.  If your thermometer has a 6-inch stem then dig a small temporary 14-inch deep hole in the compost pile and push the stem of the thermometer into the bottom of the hole to take a reading.  Then remove the thermometer and fill in the hole.
The optimal temperature range for rapid decomposition is between 90ºF to 140ºF (32ºC to 60ºC).  If the internal pile temperature drops below 90ºF (32ºC) then the normal decomposition process slows down significantly.  If the temperature rises above 140ºF (60ºC) then all the microorganisms in the pile will die, including the beneficial ones.
Fortunately the harmful microorganisms in human waste are destroyed at temperatures between 131ºF to 140ºF (55ºC to 60ºC) or slightly higher.  But the beneficial microorganisms that facilitate the compost process are not destroyed until the temperature exceeds 140ºF (60ºC).  Therefore the pile should be “turned” if its internal temperature exceeds 140ºF (60ºC).
After the final batch of human waste has been added to the compost pile and the pile is approximately 3 feet in diameter and 3 feet high, then pile temperature management becomes extremely important.  If the  temperature inside the compost pile can be kept at 131ºF (55ºC ) or above for at least three consecutive days then all the harmful microorganisms inside the pile will die.  To kill the microorganisms on the outside of the pile, the pile must then be “turned” over with a shovel so the outside of the pile is now on the inside of the pile, and a minimum internal pile temperature of 131ºF (55ºC ) must be maintained for at least three more days.
After all the harmful microorganisms have been destroyed, then the pile temperature can be allowed to fluctuate anywhere in the range between 90ºF to 140ºF (32ºC to 60ºC) and the pile will continue to decompose properly.

Compost Pile Management and Oxygen Requirements
Manage the human waste compost pile just like any other garden compost pile.
Live Earth Worms:  Worms are extremely beneficial to have inside your compost pile.  Therefore if you find some earth worms in your garden soil then you should carefully transfer them to your compost pile and they will multiply.
Safety:  Tools and equipment used on the compost pile should not be used anywhere else. As a health safety precaution you should also wear rubber gloves, and you should wear a face dust mask when turning your compost pile to prevent the inhalation of any fungi or mold spores that may be present in your compost.  When you are finished remember to wash your hands thoroughly.
Oxygen and Moisture: Do not cover your compost pile with a sheet of plastic because it will deprive your pile of necessary oxygen and moisture, and your pile may get so hot it will kill the beneficial microorganisms that are necessary to properly decompose your compost materials.
Turning the Pile:  Once a week during the warm summer months wear rubber gloves and use a pitchfork or shovel to move (turn) the entire pile a short distance to the side so the previous top and outside of the pile are now on the bottom and inside of the pile.  This will add fresh air into the pile so the aerobic bacteria can more easily facilitate the composting process.  It will also help to control the odor of the pile and it will shift any freshly laid insect larvae from the outside of the pile to the inside of the pile where they will be destroyed.  If possible, turn the compost pile when the internal pile temperature drops below 90ºF (32ºC) or rises above 140ºF (60ºC), or if the pile begins to stink.  As the composting process nears completion the internal pile temperature will remain below 90ºF (32ºC) even after the pile has been turned and it will continue to gradually get cooler and cooler.
Summer Temperatures:  Under ideal conditions the internal compost pile temperature can reach 150ºF (66ºC) or higher during the warm summer months.  When the compost pile temperature gets above 140ºF (60ºC)  the beneficial compost microorganisms begin to die.  However, any unusual rare exotic harmful microorganisms that might also be present will also be destroyed.  Turning the compost pile when its temperature gets too high will bring its temperature back down to an acceptable level.
Winter Temperatures:  The compost pile will be relatively inactive during cool and cold weather and if it is simply left alone it will continue to decay slowly and gradually into usable compost.
Waiting Period: Sometime after adding the final batch of human waste to a compost pile, the internal pile temperature must be kept at or above 131ºF (55ºC ) for at least six consecutive days.  After all the harmful microorganisms have been destroyed, the pile should then be allowed to naturally decompose for at least one-year before using the compost in a garden area.  This means you will need to have at least two or more compost piles so you can add fresh human waste material into a new compost pile while the old compost pile matures.  After one-year when the compost process is complete the compost will consist of humus that can be safely used to enrich the soil in a garden plot that can be used to grow vegetables for human consumption.
Finished Compost Characteristics:  The compost process will be complete when the compost has a uniform crumbly texture, a dark-brown color, and it has a pleasant slightly sweet aroma like fresh top soil.  If you can easily recognize large pieces of your original covering materials, or pieces of food scraps, then the composting process is not yet complete.

Final Caution
If the internal compost pile temperature cannot be kept at 131ºF (55ºC) or higher for at least six consecutive days during the summer months, then the compost will contain microorganisms that are fatal to humans.  Therefore the minimum internal pile temperature is critical to the success of this process.  Higher temperatures are better but a temperature lower than 131ºF (55ºC) is unacceptable.
If you are not sure if the temperature inside your compost pile was high enough during the summer to destroy all the harmful microorganisms, then fully cook any garden produce from your garden and do not eat any of your garden vegetables raw.  Fully cooking their garden produce is the procedure many oriental countries currently use to avoid serious health problems when they use “Night Soil.”  (Note: In most cases these oriental countries do not follow the above instructions and they simply discard their human waste directly into their garden areas.  This is not a safe way to utilize human waste and you should never be tempted to follow this unsanitary method even if it does have a history that is several centuries old.)

related articles:  Emergency Sanitation,  Humanure Composting

Click on www.grandpappy.info/indexgar.htm for more Gardening Tips.

Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/composting-human-waste/

Jan 06

Your Survival Mission

By Joe Cherry
Well, to state it as simply as possible, the mission of any person or persons in a catastrophic environment is to survive. To live and be able to sustain the human existence for continuance for the next generation and into the next world.

Whatever you believe, whether you are a religious person or a spiritual person or even an atheist, it is the nature and instinct of every creature on this planet to survive. With that said, and if we can agree on this statement and latch on to it, then we can move forward.

Ah yes, to understand a statement is one thing, to latch on to it, is surely another. It is our natural instinct to survive. Examples of sinking shipthis statement are in everyday life and throughout history. On a sinking ship, one would grab a life vest or get into a life raft or if none were available move to the part of the ship that remains above water. And even in desperation would take a vest off of a weaker person, with no value of life but his own.

In another horrible example was the Nazi extermination of the Jew prisoners. After the Jews were forced into gas chambers that were sealed and locked from the outside, a deadly cyanide Zyklon-B was forced into the chamber. As the poison gas filled the chamber, the victims would climb onto each other to get to the good air, halocaustsmothering and killing the weaker people. When the chamber was cleared of gas, and the doors were opened, the Germans would find a pyramid of bodies to the ceiling.

In this article I will discuss different scenarios, and the actions and reactions of those involved and try to raise the awareness of the reader regarding his survival through the worst of times.  And yes, the worst of times is yet to face us all, whether it be revolution, terrorism, biological or nuclear war, or a cataclysmic  event.

In the first scenario, we will start with revolution.  There is a new government that is very popular and drew an overwhelming victory in the national election.  The strategy was simple yet effective, to gain the support of the poor and indigent, promising a better life and vilifying those who are the moral and economic fabric of this nation, and at the same time sending mixed signals to our enemies by demonizing and demeaning our military.
During the first six months of power, we start to see change as we have never seen it.  Due to the massive fraud perpetuated  on Wall St, combined with the gross incompetence of mortgage bankers and insurance companies and for good measure, the poor quality of products from the auto industry, massive amounts of money is given to these firms with little or no chance of return.  All approved and sanctioned by the politicians bought and paid for by the lobbyist that represent the corruption mentioned above.  As much as the financial wizards warn of collapse, those in power continue to ignore and speak of better days to come.
New tax laws are enacted, and old tax laws are revised to pay for the massive debt incurred.  Other countries warn of economic collapse and some see the present world financial system as quite fragile and have proposed that a new currency be introduced as a standard in international trade and financial transactions.  China is our biggest lender and what we owe them cannot be repaid ever.  Financial experts agree that if a 100% federal withholding tax was imposed, we still would not be able to pay off the national debt.  The Fed decides to monetize the debt by printing 100 billion more dollars.  Hyper-inflation is always the result and taxes jump dramatically on cigarettes, gasoline, and staple items.  The dollar is de valuated causing sky rocketing prices on everything.   After a year in power, unemployment is at it’s highest since the great depression, home fore closures are continually rising, there are up surges in domestic and local violence. Random shootings and mini massacres are now the common, most blaming loss of jobs and now there is a new game in town, home invasion.  Gangs are forcing their way into homes, robbing, raping and killing.  The local law enforcement agencies along with fire departments are stretched beyond resource and now incapable of public safety.  Cities, towns, and states are going bankrupt and cannot maintain the  pensions or benefits of those retired government workers and teachers.
Riots ensue instigated by unions and total chaos and calamity take over.aa-police-state-newsweek-cover-good-one

At this point, martial law is imposed.  The military rolls into cities and towns, invokes curfews,
going from house to house, seizing all weapons and guns and as a measure of “safety”, rounds up civilians and corrals them into “tent cities” calling it a “temporary” measure, and in the name of national security.  The anger for the government is at boiling point, and yet, the elitists don’t see it as civil unrest because of what they caused, but an illegal action by a few unruly troublemakers that are “stirring up anger”.

All along, in the shadows of history since the signing of the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution and before, there have been groups of patriots living the words of those important documents, they are called Militias.  Groups of men, women and children that are always ready to battle a tyrannical government, whether hostile, unjustly abusing absolute power, or simply incompetent leaving this great nation at risk to foreign influence and takeover.  Now the time has come for the rise of the State Militia.  In every state of the republic, Militias  regroup and re-arm and mobilize to protect our civilians.   The civilian armies rise and are totally prepared to face the might of the United States Armed Forces, the most powerful military machine in the world.    
Sound familiar?   Well it should, for in 1764, the British were imposing unbearable legislation on the colonies, which by tyranny of americanrevolution   the king of England, resulted in revolution and the freedom of all men in these states.  Farmers, businessmen, shop owners, women and children turned their tools into weapons and went up against the most powerful, sophisticated, army in the world.

In the next scenario,  we will use natural disaster.  Remember Katrina and Sandy?  Mega hurricanes making shore on populated coasts and Major Cities wreaking havoc, death and destruction.  As I write this article, it has been over 2 months since  Sandy hit the Eastern Shoreline causing deaths and destruction in the tens of billions.  There are communities that are still without help, people displaced cold and hungry and while the banks are demanding mortgage sandygirlpayments on flattened real estate, the government not only votes it’s Congress a raise, but neglects to vote on an  emergency aid package for the  affected areas, leaving the common folk to eek out an existence in a third world type environment.  There are home invasions and looting continuing to this day and law enforcement is scarce at most.  People there are literally fighting for their lives and surviving day to day, minute to minute.  Fema has emergency trailers and emergency living quarters but they are parked somewhere in Pennsylvania idle.  The Red Cross has done some work but not even close to what is needed.  A situation like this, my friends is a kettle that will boil over.  There are millions that depend on the government to protect them and when the reality of false sense of security sets in, there is anger and rebellion.
Consider two or three Katrinas or Sandys at the same time.  What will happen when the population counts on supporimagesCAQBLIICt from the government and it is simply not there?
(As a side note, the Congress did approve a Sandy Emergency Bill on Jan 3, 2013 only 69 days after the event for 9.7 Billion loaded with pork projects that have no relationship to the hurricane at all.  You have to wonder sometimes.)

The second scenario is not a scenario at all, but real and happened and the kettle continues to boil. If I could influence you with anything I say at all, I would simply say to prepare.  Prepare to keep yourself and your family safe in troubled times.  Go on the web and download manuals and articles on storing food and purifying water.  Download e-books on survival and print all of these putting them into binders. Protect them with plastic bags or into a sealed plastic bin.

Remember, when the SHTF, your family is going to look to you first for help.  You should know what to do.

Joe Cherry

Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/your-survival-mission/

Jan 06

Bug Out Bag built on Ultra Light Equipment

Bug Out Bag built on Ultra Light Equipment
by West Falia
reprinted from the APN website
In some previous articles I have discussed some possible ways to approach the subject of Bug Out Bags from a light weight perspective. In this article I will focus on Ultra Light Weight Equipment and what type of gear you can go for if you want to build an Ultra Light Weight pack for outdoor activities or as a BOB. The Ultra Light Weight Hiking movement has become very popular and new equipment becomes available all the time. In this article I will give some examples of equipment that is available. All Bug Out Bags must be adapted to the person that uses the setup, the local climate, seasonal variations and terrain. One Size Do Not fit All and this article is only intended to provide the reader with some inspirations for their own setups. For some of the considerations that should be included see the article Building the right Bug Out Bag for You.
Suggestion for an Ultra Light Bug Out Bag Weight: 4,155kg without water, 7,235kg including water (around 16 pounds including 3 liter of Water)
Backpack 0,891kg [ ] Terra Nova Voyager 55 Liter 891g
Shelter and Clothing 1,33kg [ ] Terra Nova Ultra 1 Tarp 2,5m x 1,5m 70g [ ] 20m (5 x 4m) meters of Dyneema cord 30g [ ] Montane Light-Speed H20 Jacket 155g [ ] Montane Atomic Pants 200g [ ] Western Mountaineering Summer Light Sleeping Bag (180cm length) 525g [ ] Thermarest NeoAir XLite Sleeping Pad 350g
Survival Knife 0,107kg [ ] Mora Companion MG Fixed Blade Knife 107g
Fire 0,021kg [ ] FireSteel Pup 7g [ ] BIC Lighter 14 g
Light 0.082kg      [ ] Petzl Tikka Plus 2 Headlamp (Including 3 AA Batteries) 81g
Pocket Survival Kit 0,1kg [ ] Zip Lock Bag [ ] Fishing line, hooks and sinks[ ] Snare Wire [ ] Safety Pins [ ] Sewing Kit [ ] Wire Saw [ ] Anti Diarrheal Tablets
[ ] Water Purification Tablets
[ ] Pen [ ] Vargo Titanium Whistle 3g [ ] Fällkniven U-4 Folding Knife 22g
Water 3,080kg [ ] 2 1,5 liter Soda Bottles (40g+40g + 1500g+1500g) 3080g
Food and Cooking 1,215kg [ ] Jetboil SOL Gas Stove 300g [ ] Jetboil Pot Support and Stabilizer 57g [ ] 100g Gas Bottle 198g [ ] 6 Freeze Dried Meals from DryTech 660g
First Aid and Hygiene 0,25kg [ ] Lifesystems Light + Dry Micro 114g [ ] Compact bottle of Soap [ ] Tooth Brush, Dental Floss and Tooth Paste [ ] Half a roll of Toilet Paper in a Waterproof Bag 100g
Navigation 0.123kg  [ ] Topographical Map 100g [ ] Compass: Silva Ranger SL 23g
Other 0,036kg [ ] Rite In The Rain 3×5 Notebook 36g
This setup is centered on different types of Ultra Light Equipment but still provides a comprehensive setup with a weight of around 7 kilograms including 3 liters of Water. Some personal equipment and clothing would most likely have to be included as well but the weight of the pack is still low. A Bug Out Bag does not have to consist of only Ultra Light Weight equipment as in this setup; but by incorporating some Ultra Light Items you can reduce the weight of regular setup or a regular hiking pack.
Since Ultra Light Weight Equipment does not provide the same amount of insulation and protection from the elements as thicker fabrics the clothing you carry is extra important in order to avoid hypothermia. In cold weather settings this approach is not as effective since it leaves you vulnerable to the elements; an Ultra Light Approach can however be a successful concept during the summers even in Northern Regions. The critical aspect is that you know the limitations of the gear and adapt accordingly; experience, knowledge and skills becomes extra important and you must handle the gear with more care.


Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/bug-out-bag-built-on-ultra-light-equipment/

Jan 06

The Survival Food Pyramid

The Survival Food Pyramid

reprinted from the Survival Cache website.

Survival Food Pyramid

From personal experience I know, when you first get into surviving/prepping the information thrown at you can be overwhelming. The Survival Food Pyramid will get you started stocking food in a logical, simple, and economical way.

Everyone who has a basement full of canned goods and a survival garden started somewhere.  We will help get you started.

The Concept

The top of the pyramid is for stocking the smallest amount of food for the shortest amount of time. The idea being that someone who is completely new to prepping can start with a cheap and easy goal and build (downward) from there.

This pyramid will keep you from spending time and money on preps that, while they may be useful overall, are pointless to you right now. How much of a 50 pound bag of flour or rice will you use in a 3 day long power outage? Prepping in complete, logical steps is the smart way to go.

Survival Food Pyramid

Click for Large View


If you are new to prepping, or you are experienced but find your supplies jump all over the map, start by stocking enough food and supplies for a 3 Day Emergency. This can be as simple as a single trip to the grocery store. Buy a 3 day supply of food for you household (be sure to get things with a long shelf life) and place it somewhere other than your pantry. (See our selection of Mainstay Food Bars – they have a 5 year shelf life and come in 1200, 2400, 3600 calorie packages)

If you have a typical local situation, such as a major snow storm or power outage, you won’t be one of the people raiding the grocery store.

Be sure to include at least 1 gallon of water per day, per family member, and something to cook on, like a MSR Whisperlite stove, with fuel.


The extended food preps simply build on the immediate preps. On further trips to the store, add a few food items to your 3 day cache each time and you will soon have enough to survive for several weeks. Perhaps choose a dedicated closet or other area to stock your preps.

Remember that the extended survival food supply is going to need regular cooking supplies to be stocked, such as oil, flour, sugar, spices, etc. You will also need larger water containers to support not only drinking and cooking, but hygiene.

Long Term

Long term food preps mean there has been some type of major disaster and there won’t be any trips to the store for months.. This step moves on from basic stocking, to self sustaining.

You will have to have stocked bulk supplies of staple foods for cooking, like flour, wheat, sugar, and canned goods. A large fuel supply, or alternative cooking method will have to be used, and hunting if it is available. You will also have to have an alternative water source such as water collection, filtration, and recycling.


The perpetual food supply is for total collapse from which there is no coming back or voluntary off grid living indefinitely. You must have a self sustaining food supply, like a garden with heirloom seeds and large hunting area. You must also have a natural water source other than anything you have stocked.

*Take Note

All of the time periods and recommendations in the pyramid are general. There are no specific rules. You immediate preps might last you a week. Your extended preps might run out in a month. It all depends on your situation, and what you have stocked.

Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/the-survival-food-pyramid/

Jan 06

Sharing Some Tricks and a Recipe on Jerky

Sharing Some Tricks and a Recipe on Jerky


by Stephanie Dayle – Fri Jun 22, 11:00 am

reprinted from the APN site.

A few years back, I saw this segment of “Good Eats” (a Food Channel show) on jerky.  I quickly copied his recipe and logged it in my mind.  Someone asked me a question on jerky last month that made me go searching for this video.  When I found it and watched it again, I was amazed.  They made a ‘preparedness food’ episode and didn’t even know it!

This will show you exactly how to make your own jerky for storage without a fancy dehydrator or smoker out of a household box fan and some furnace filters (unused of course).  It will EVEN show you how to make your own homemade liquid smoke.  All you need is 20 minutes of spare time to give these videos a look, the guy hosting (Alton Brown) is a goofball but his information is good.

For grins I tried it (of COURSE I tried it) and it turned out great.  A little on the crunchy fibrous side but good, I figure if meat is like veggies the snap factor indicates near complete dehydration – and appropriateness for longer term storage.  Alton Brown from “Good Eats” on this episode claims it will last at least 4yrs in a jar.  Watch and enjoy!

Homemade Jerky Part 1

  Beef Jerky 1

Homemade Jerky Part 2 

 Beef Jerky part 2


Here’s the Jerky Recipe:

  • 1 1/2 to 2 pounds flank steak
  • 2/3 cup Worcestershire sauce
  • 2/3 cup soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 teaspoons onion powder
  • 1 teaspoon liquid smoke
  • 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • Special Equipment:  1 box fan, 4 paper air-conditioning filters, and 2 bungee cords

Click Here for the jerky soup recipe. 

A word on safety:  The risk in dehydrating meat without first cooking it to a safe temperature is that the appliance (the box fan) will not heat the meat to 160 °F  — the temperature at which bacteria are destroyed in beef —before it dries.  If the bacteria survives the salty acidic marinade, IF these surviving bacteria are pathogenic (BIG IF), they can cause food borne illness to those consuming the jerky.  In all fairness, many consumer model food dehydrators will only heat homemade jerky up to 130-140°F while drying, which is not technically adequate heat for killing all bacteria either.  If you must make jerky at home, you should at least review USDAs guidelines to making homemade jerky before you begin.

Other Food Borne Illnesses Risks we Take:

  • Raw eggs found in homemade ice cream (BRING IT)
  • Rare steaks (The only way to fly – in my never humble opinion)
  • Slightly undercooked or dare I even say pink hamburger!!!
  • Raw cookie dough (Ummm….I think I ate too much cookie dough…)
  • Soft chewy bacon (According to my still living Dad, the rubberier, the better)

There are also other special considerations to take when making homemade jerky from venison or other wild game.  Wild game meat is not regulated by the USDA prior to processing.  Venison can also, if not killed or handled properly (this is usually in direct proportion to the hunters skill and knowledge), be heavily contaminated with fecal bacteria.  While fresh beef is usually rapidly chilled and/or frozen, deer carcasses are typically held at ambient temperatures (whatever the temperature is outside at the time of the kill and/or aging), potentially allowing bacteria multiplication.  Therefore, reaching internal meat temperatures of 160 °F with wild game meat is even more important.

So what type of “insurance” do you require for your homemade jerky adventures?  It really is up to you.

Permanent link to this article: http://survivaltechniques101.com/sharing-some-tricks-and-a-recipe-on-jerky/

Older posts «

» Newer posts